Road Trip: Santa Cruz to LA

We made our way down the Pacific Coast Highway again to stay with Lizzy’s other brother in LA. It was a beautiful sunny day and perfect for a drive. We stopped at the famous Carmel-by-the-Sea for a quick run to the beach. We also tried to visit Pfeiffer Beach in Big Sur, but the line for parking was SO long that we eventually bailed. 2015-06-20 10.17.20
Instead, we stopped at Cafe Kevah for a quick cup and to take in the views from the balcony.
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We didn’t drive Route 1 the whole way – it got crowded in the afternoon and really slowed down. Still, the portion I drove was windy, fun and filled with spectacular views.

We spent the night in LA: got some great Asian food for dinner, shared a few California beers, soaked in the hot tub and had a well-deserved rest. The next morning (after brunch, of course) I dropped Lizzy off at LAX and she headed back East. I was headed back East, too, but it would take much longer. Those updates to come soon!

Road Trip: Santa Cruz, CA

After our time roughing it in Yosemite, Lizzy and I were looking forward to the comfort of staying at her brother’s house in Santa Cruz, California. Comfort, and a shower. Probably more a shower than anything!

After we had cleaned up, and had some real food in us (no more of that freeze-dried backpacking stuff!) we spent the next day exploring the Santa Cruz area. We visited UCSC and the arboretum there, which had interesting exhibits of plants from semi-arid climates like Australia and New Zealand. Next was some coffee from Verve Coffee Roasters, an awesome shop on Pacific Ave in downtown Santa Cruz. They had a huge range of different roasts brewing, all of which were light roasts (I think I found my favorite coffee shop). The one I chose had distinctive orange peel notes and was delicious!

We then visited the Santa Cruz wharf and got some fresh shellfish for lunch. Stagnaro Bros is at the end of the wharf, and delivers quick to-go orders of their best stuff. We chose crab cocktail, shrimp ceviche cocktail and some clam chowder to go with it, all of which was delicious. We ate on the wharf with the herds of sea lions calling out beneath us.

We also visited Natural Bridges state beach, known for the walking trails, abundant butterflies and the beach, which had used to have three natural “bridges” made out of rock. Unfortunately, only one is still standing due the persistent erosion by wind and water.
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For dinner, we gathered some friends together (Kevin came to see us from Palo Alto!) and had a cookout at Davenport beach. My mouth is watering just thinking about everything we grilled! Not pictured: red snapper, chicken skewers, more vegetables. We hiked up a path close to the beach to catch a windy sunset, too. Have you ever seen a cloud that so closely resembled a shark?

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Road Trip: Yosemite National Park

I’ve been attached to Yosemite since I got into climbing freshman year at Brown, and I was thrilled I finally had a chance to visit the park. Lizzy and I planned to do a three day backpacking trip to really get out into the wilderness. She also hadn’t been backpacking before, so it was a great chance to teach her all about backcountry camping! We spent the first night in the Crane Flat campground so we could get a backcountry permit the day before starting our hike. We also explored Yosemite valley at this time, including the famed mirror lake (not pictured: half dome off to the right of the photo).
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For dinner that night: lentil curry that turned out way better than you would expect for camping stoves. It took about two hours of cooking, and we didn’t pack our bags as planned, but it was worth it!

The next morning we packed and headed to the chilnualna falls trailhead, the starting point of our hike. How’s that heavy pack feel?
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We were greeted by 5 miles of steep uphill terrain in 95 degree sun. Reaching the waterfall at the top was a perfect reward.. there were pools of water flowing into each other and eventually over a cliff, hundreds of feet down into the valley below. Perfect spot for lunch and an afternoon swim! 2015-06-16 13.05.50We spent the first night at a site a few miles upriver from the falls, and the second by a mountain lake. Every day we had spectacular views, mountain meadows and granite monoliths that had stood the test of time along the way.2015-06-17 17.58.43 2015-06-17 18.22.56

We covered about 20 miles over the three day trip, most of it on steep terrain. Not bad for a first-timer! Yosemite is a huge park with a wide range of different environments, though. We only scratched the surface of what it has to offer. I can’t wait until the next chance I get to explore more of the park!

Road Trip: California Coast

We were headed south, down to Yosemite National Park. The best way to drive in California (okay, maybe I’m a bit biased) is along the coast. The Pacific Coast Highway, made up of route 1 and 101, runs most of the West Coast and combines spectacular views with fun, windy roads. We stopped along the way at Cape Perpetua for some hiking along rough winds and surf.

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We spent one night in the Redwoods (Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park) and a second in Oakland, CA. First time driving over the Golden Gate! I hear it’s always this cloudy?

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Road Trip: Oregon

Lizzy and I spent two days exploring different sections of Oregon. The first night we camped at Columbia River Gorge and explored the surrounding area. We did a moderate hike up to a peak with a great view of the river and dams. It was windy at the top! We also hiked to some waterfalls in the surrounding valley.

Overall, the Columbia River Gorge area is a spot you should definitely check out – you could spend a few days visiting the different sites. Eagle creek campground gets five stars in my book.
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We spent the next day in Portland, visiting the rose garden, Japanese garden, and walking around the city.
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Some excellent beer in the evening (Stormbreaker Brewing has a great selection) and sushi for dinner rounded things out. Plus, our friend Mariya drove down from Vancouver and hung out with us!

Bonus photo: The remnants of an incredible Mexican Hot Chocolate donut from Blue Star Donuts the morning we left. So good!
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Road Trip: Seattle, Washington

My girlfriend Lizzy flew out to Seattle to join me for the next section of the trip – a tour down the West Coast. Our first day in the city was packed with visiting the interesting sites in downtown and West Seattle (where we were staying in an airbnb).

First stop: Pike Place Market. The famous indoor/outdoor market spans several blocks by the water in downtown Seattle. You’re immediately greeted by stalls of fresh fish, produce, craft-made everything. I think I became fifty bucks poorer just walking onto Pike street. Just look at this fish stall!

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We explored the market and stocked up on provisions for the next sections of the trip. Buckwheat honey (surprisingly good on oats), salmon jerky and Italian salami should drive away the mundane tastes of backpacking food. I also visited a few coffee shops to try some of Seattle’s famous brews, and eventually decided to take home a bag from Seattle Coffee Works. It tastes great in the new traveling french press I also picked up!

Downtown had some more interesting sights to check out, like the Chihuly Garden and Glass museum. Most of Dale Chihuly’s work is displayed in this indoor-outdoor museum. The color and scale of some of the exhibits are truly stunning.

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One thing I immediately noticed about Seattle in contrast to the East Coast: people are friendly out here. Not just fake “how’s it going” friendly. No. Actually friendly. Interested in talking to strangers and learning their story. I had a 20 minute conversation about traveling with a guy on a beach in West Seattle. Lizzy and I talked about farming and produce to a vendor in Pike Place, after which he gave us a great deal on the food we had lined up. I just can’t see these conversations happening in Boston or Providence. Time to start looking at grad schools in Washington? Maybe…

Road Trip: Grand Teton National Park

We wanted to spend a night in the backcountry in Grand Teton National Park, but all backcountry stays require a permit. The park saves a portion of the available permits for walk-in hikers, so we thought we had to get to the ranger station right when they opened to be guaranteed a spot. After waking up at 6am and hauling to the park (about an hour drive from Yellowstone) we were the only ones trying to get a permit for that day and got it with ease. Slightly tired, we drove to the trailhead and prepared to hike out to Lower Paintbrush Canyon for the night.

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The camping area was only a few hours from the trailhead, and we reached it with time to do a nice day-hike. We moved further up the canyon, trying to reach Holy lake. The views along the trail were incredible. We were surrounded by mountains on all sides, with lots of snow still visible in the distance.

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Soon we were hiking in snow, too! Straight up the canyon, kicking in to secure our footing.

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Time to reach the lake from the campsite: 2 hours
Time to get back to the campsite, hiking down hill, most of it sliding in the snow: 55 minutes
Quite a difference!

We spent the evening cooking and hanging out in camp and went to bed pretty early. In the morning, there was a moose staring into our camp! It noticed us, but didn’t seem to frightened… just went on munching on plants.

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Grand Teton National Park was my favorite wilderness experience of the trip so far, and I recommend anyone who gets a chance to seek it out. I’ll be back in the future to do the Teton Crest trail or some more intense hikes.

Tonight, we’re at a hostel in Teton Village (near Jackson and the park).

Days since last shower: 8
Feeling of a hot, prepared meal: Satisfying and well-deserved.
Sleep in a real bed: Looking forward to it.

 

 

Road Trip: Yellowstone National Park

We spent Thursday exploring Yellowstone. My first impression driving into the park: this place is big. Hundreds of miles of road link the different sections of the park together, and it’s hard to plan a trip that visits the major sites in a single day.

First stop: the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone river. Not as deep as the Grand Canyon in Arizona, but equally impressive. The massive upper falls are off in the distance from this view of “artist’s point.”

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Next: Mammoth hot springs. Boiling water fueled by the volcanic activity under Yellowstone flows over the ground, depositing minerals with interesting formations and colors.

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Third: Norris Geyser Basin. The landscape is alive with geysers, some small and some huge!

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We spent a while driving around the park to the different sites, and had some interesting encounters with wildlife.

2015-06-04 18.11.57 2015-06-04 18.44.51Spending the night: Bridge Bay campground. A simple, crowded frontcountry campground in the south side of the park. Nothing too special, actually a little disappointing.

 

 

Road Trip: Badlands to Yellowstone + Devil’s Tower

We drove the 500 miles from Badlands to Yellowstone over two days, stopping for a night at the Prune Creek Campground in the Bighorn National Forest, Wyoming. After leaving South Dakota, the drive became a lot more interesting. Flat plains turned into rolling hills, then mountains, with the characteristic Wyoming red sandstone. This was the most enjoyable section of the drive so far.

We stopped by Devil’s Tower, a monoithic National Monument that has been the subject of ancient Indian legend and a hot spot for modern day climbers.

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The tower was actually the result of volcanic activity 40 million years ago. Igneous rock pushed up into the surrounding landscape (all buried by sedimentary rock at the time) and fractured into columns as it cooled. The sedimentary rock eroded over the years, leaving the tower exposed.

Favorite state: Wyoming
Knowledge of geology: getting better
Morning coffee: instant 🙁
Route followed:

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Road Trip: Backcountry in the Badlands 2

I woke up to sunrise in the Badlands. The landscape here is amazing – rolling prairie fields, towering mesas and sedimentary mountain peaks surround you. I spent a while looking around in the early morning light.

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That second photo is of a bison surprisingly close to our camp. Definitely not the last one we would see today. After breakfast, we spent a while with the map and compass trying to figure out where we had wandered to camp last night. “Is it declination West, compass best? Or the other way around?”

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We planned a route to explore the landscape and set off into the desert. We trekked through canyons, explored cliffs and navigated through river beds for most of the day.

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(Angela, are you texting in the backcountry?!)

At one point, we climbed a small hill and came upon a bison a little too close for comfort. We froze and watched as he stared back. Soon, the two bison (one was hidden behind the rocks) charged off to our right. These creatures can weigh almost two tons. It was an exciting, slightly terrifying experience watching the raw power they possess.

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By 1pm, the sun and hot temperatures were almost too much to bare, so we headed back to camp for some shade and lunch. Much to our surprise, there was a bison hanging out by our camp! When he didn’t move after an hour, I sneakily grabbed our tents and we found a new spot to spend the night. Much of the rest of the afternoon was spent lounging around, reading, and napping – the sun was just too hot.

A small storm rolled in after dinner, but passed quickly. If you look carefully, there’s a bison at the end of the rainbow!

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I fell asleep at 9, but by 10:30 another storm was raging outside. I spent the next hour and half sitting in my tent, holding the poles up so the wind didn’t blow it on top of me. Outside, lightning raged and the wind howled. Angela’s tent eventually collapsed, forcing us to relocate to a more sheltered spot. Morning finally came, and we hiked out to the cars.

Badlands was the most inhospitable environment I’ve ever stayed in. Simply maintaining a camp there was a constant battle against
1) High temperatures and constant sun. It’s impossible to get anything done in the afternoon hours, and there aren’t any shady spots you can retire to.
2) Exposure to storms and lightning. It’s hard to find a camp that’s protected from wind and lightning. Staying our there through a storm was honestly frightening.
3) No potable water. There are some rivers in the territory, but the water isn’t safe to drink even after filtering or treating. This means you have to bring a ton of water (see point 1), and even so, I was definitely dehydrated by the time we left.
4) Bison. They will charge and gore you if you’re not careful, and it’s easy to surprise them in this landscape.
5) Mosquitoes. They make everything about just existing in this environment more difficult. By the time I left, the back of my legs were covered in a hundred bites each – no kidding.

I learned a lot about staying in harsh environments after two nights in the Badlands. I was definitely not sad when we got back to the car and on the road again, though!